Coffee Territory

“Coffee should be black as Hell, strong as death, and sweet as love” Turkish Proverb

Consumers of Coffee: Great Britain, North America.

Coffee in India
The rest with a coffee after parade on the staging area in India.

1850

Great Britain

The history of coffee prevalence in Great Britain is differ from countries of Europe and North America. First, here the epoch of coffee houses were quite brief. Second, the tradition drink coffee in private took its roots very fast. Based upon available data, the most Englishmen considered the process of browning and grinding too complex and involved. Much easier and pleasant was to wash down dry leaves of tea-plant with boiling water. Nevertheless Great Britain was one of the first countries, which started the import of coffee.

There is a note from 1637 year in John Evelyn’s diary, how Turkish refugee delivered coffee to Oxford. The drink, which was made from it, became very popular among students and lecturers, who soon found out that this drink stimulates mental faculties and allows continue studying at night. In Oxford was opened Coffee Club, which later transformed into the Royal Society. About in 1650 Jew named Jacob founded the first coffee house, named “Angel“. Another such institution was soon opened in London, in Cornhill; its owner was a Greek Pasqua Rose.

In Great Britain, like in other countries, new drink had its followers and opponents. One chronicler of XVII century wrote that it was made from fried old crusts and pieces of leather milled in powder. Another annalist considered coffee as «syrup from soot and extraction from old shoes». Famous politician, reformer and economist William Cobbett (1762—1835) was one of some representatives, who considered coffee as «slush».

English coffee house. Anonymous author. 1668.

English coffee house. Anonymous author. 1668.



Coffee houses won spurs.

Nevertheless by 1660 the Londoners with great pleasure visited coffee houses, which saved their popularity during following fifty years. Even such world catastrophes as plague epidemic (1665) or Great Fire (1666) could not prevent townsmen from visiting of coffee houses. These institutions were found as vitally important for business people – here met trading partners, committed transaction, were concluded bargains, signed contracts and took place the information interchange. Just here were born such establishments of world economy like trade house, insurance companies «Lloyd» and «Baltic». Here were gathered artists, poets, writers, lawyers, politicians, philosophers and sages, each of them had his favorite place. In the diary of Samuel Pepys (1633 – 1703) you can find numerous mentions about visiting of different coffee houses in London.

In some houses was entrance fee in one penny, however visitors could discuss everything what they wanted. This incident was known under the name of “penny’s University”, and such coffee houses were centers of political and literary influence. In coffee houses were occurred and spread rumors and gossip, which you can find ironic mention in “Nyosmanzhers Hall”. Here you can learn everything starting with political news around the world and finished with fashion news, modern diets and information about the life of famous people.

Yobbish manners in English coffee house
Yobbish manners in English coffee house.
The end of XVII century.

Prohibition on coffee using

In 1675 in order to avoided civil commotion, Charles II had issued an edict about closing of coffee houses. He had a support of Londoner’s women – they submitted an application, where stated their view about over-use of withering and remissive «liqueur». Women confirmed that this drink make men sexual incapable. Women, who had no right to visit public institutions, complained to king, that their husbands spend fast all the time in these coffee houses and waste family budget. They confirmed, that «the whole nation is on the verge of dying out». Gentlemen replied immediately, that they did not spend less time on the nuptial bed because of coffee, but of women evil tongues.

In spite of support from the women part of population, the prohibition on coffee lasted not very long. After numerous active mass protests and petitions from the direction of merchants and retailers, coffee houses were newly opened. But «on conditions that owners would not allow readings of any scandalous articles, books or slanderous statements against government».

As such injunctions were obviously absurd, they were soon abolished. Since then coffee houses have never experienced persecutions. Simultaneously with a popularity of coffee as a drink, grew the movement of followers for abstemious life. Under its influence, working people, dockers and other representatives of hired labor stopped visiting pubs, showing preference for coffee houses. Here you could meet all sections of the population. In some cafes there was an anxiety about if they could get along together. In order to prevent mass riots, they put up rules of conduct (see boxed text).

Picture of Rowlands and Pugin. 1809
The large hall for haunters in Brooks’s club in St. James Street.
Picture of Rowlands and Pugin. 1809

Fall of coffee’s popularity

By XVIII century, in spite of various rules of conduct in coffee houses, their atmosphere has undergone important changes. In order to attract more visitors, many houses served strong drinks. In response, intellectuals began to visit only specially educated clubs, and prosperous and influential men, for safety’s sake, visited closed clubs for elite in Pall Mall and Saint James. Commercial interests and financiers have come to conclusion, that it is more convenient to work in special offices or in others quarters, which are belong to professional associations and societies. It was one more reason of fall in popularity of coffee houses – wide spread occurrence in the second half of XVIII century of bookshops and libraries. If earlier newspapers and publications could be found only in coffee houses, then now libraries gave an opportunity read not only native literature of all varieties, but also foreign periodicals. Visitors, who earlier read newspapers in coffee houses, now preferred do it anywhere.

In spite of the fact that representatives of high society and middle class got accustomed to drink coffee, tea became more and more popular. There were arisen quite new institutions, where were served other soft drinks and food. By the end of XVIII century people in Britain almost did not drink coffee. It was against drawn attention only in the second half of XX century.

English coffee seller in 1860. K. Hunt’s picture.
English coffee seller in 1860. K. Hunt’s picture. 1881

The rules of conduct in coffee houses

«Any member of society can visits coffee house irrespective of profession; all visitors should be in one hall, taking places in turn; nobody has any advantage in order to take the best place; it is allowed to argue and hold different discussions, keeping quiet, because not everyone likes loud conversations; do not touch private questions of your interlocutor…»

North America

As likely as not, that Dutch colonists have delivered coffee to New Amsterdam, renamed New York, long ago. However first established facts, which confirm penetration of this product to North America, are dated in 1668. Two years later in Boston was issued license of trading right in Dorothy Jones name. Shortly thereafter in all colonies on the east coast of the Atlantic were appeared coffee houses.

At that time the service of coffee house was considered as women’s work, though great ladies had never been owners of such institutions. In contrast to Europe, in America, spending time in cafes was considered as aimless. These places had not European club atmosphere, they were more reminded of taverns and eating-houses, where soldiers and travelers could rent a room. There were not a lot of visitors, who usually behaved like a hooligans. One the most famous coffee house was «Green Dragon» in Boston. Here gathered revolutionary minded colonists.

The colonists greet Indians ...
The colonists greet Indians, who throw away English tea in Boston Harbor.
This lithograph has announced the growth in popularity of coffee. 1846

In reply to increase of tea sales duty, in 1773 colonists organized the Boston Tea Party. It proclaimed coffee American national drink. As a result of this policy, coffee houses were opened in many towns. Some of them went to history of USA, because here were decided politically important questions. Merchants’ coffee house in New York was a scene of endless political debates and strategic projects. It was competed with famous «Tontin», which owned 150 New York businessmen on an equal footing. It was like raw exchange market and commodity market, banquet hall, as well as an office where were registered arriving and sailing ships.

Finally, American coffee houses have turned into business enterprises and associations, men’s clubs, banks and commodity markets. Some of them were transformed into taverns, hotels and restaurants.

In spite of the fact that coffee houses could not exist for a long time, coffee as a drink got general popularity. It was promoted by means of influx of European resettles. The expansion of coffee market was also a result of joining such big territories like Florida and French speaking provinces, which were placed in Mississippi valley.

Coffee helped to maintain competitive spirit by colonists, who went to conquer west parts of America. Even natives of the continent have drunk coffee. There are legends, in accordance with, resettles have exchanged part of ground by Indians instead of instruments, weapons and sacks of Javanese coffee.

In soldier’s ration coffee has played a large part. They liked this «hot black strong drink, which helped them walk tirelessly». It was highly rated, and soldiers always tried to make sure that it was equally divided. For that, equal parts of coffee were poured on the rug, and sergeant, turned back to soldiers, called out their names in no particular order.

By the middle of XIX century coffee has firmly entered the lives of Americans. Then they used 3.5 kilograms of grain per head, while the Europeans – only 600 g. Different sections of the population drunk coffee, both in towns and in countryside. It really became the national drink of Americans.





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