The discoverers of coffee weren’t the Arabs, but Ethiopians – the group of some nationalities (Amhara, Tigray-Tigrinya, Gurage…). The group has appeared in the first thousand B.C., when inhabitants from the Arabian Peninsula moved to present Ethiopia and mixed with Negroids – Cushitic and Nilotes.

Ethiopians pounded coffee-tree fruits, mix them with adipose and made from them dumplings as large as plums. Fats, which were mixed with nourishing coffee fruits and seeds protein, empowered people. Coffee was a marvelous pepper-upper. From the fruits juice the nomads made beverage, looked like wine, and from the leaves – drink, like tea.

With time people started to make hot beverage from the seeds of the coffee-tree. At the beginning they used it during religious ceremonies. Later it became a national drink of the Ethiopians. Afterwards seeds and leaves harvesting became a separate trade which were spread from Africa to Yemen.

Coffee history in Yemen

Statue of Behzad in Tabriz

One of the earliest records of coffee contains in Arabian manuscript № 944, which is saved in the French National Library. Shehabeddin Ben, Arabian author of XV century, told about his contemporary Kamaleddin, a mufti of Yemenite town Aden, who was traveling to Persia. During his stay, he paid attention to his fellows, who were making and drinking coffee. Earlier he made little of it.

Retuning to Aden Kamaleddin felt weak and remembered about coffee. He decided to taste this beverage, which helped him not only be cured, but returned the strength of mind. Kamaleddin appreciated last advantage because it helped in night religious watches. The mufti’s authority and recommendations promoted the beverage’s distribution. A short time later not only dervishes but also crafts- and tradespeople, as well as other townsmen would drink this beverage.

Speaking about Asia countries, which supply coffee, most often we start with Yemen. In spite of the fact that country produces not much coffee, here it’s the most delicious and fragrant. Its state can be paralleled with famous Chinese yellow and red sorts of tea. Experts confirm that nothing can be compared with Yemen coffee. That is why long since Yemen is called forefather of coffee. His beloved and great son – Mocha (the name arose from the Mocha port) is known for its uncertainty. Its manufacture is so insignificant, that it enigmatic and very expensive rarity does not get any markets.

Describing the fast coffee distribution, Arabian author stressed that despite the fact that people liked this beverage so much, they even refused from Khat chewing.

Thus, became popular in Aden, the population’s habit of drinking coffee was spread to the neighboring cities and reached Mecca. Here, from the beginning, coffee was also used by dervishes in religious ceremonies, but then it came in life of all citizens. The coffee has reached the holy capital of Moslem world in 1470.

Legendary Mocha

We can surely assert that there aren’t any famous geographic names in the history of coffee than Mocha. A sort of coffee was called after this small Yemenite harbor on the Red Sea.

The city is deserved to be told about.

Mocha is a small Yemenite port city on the Red Sea

About 700 years B.C. the tradespeople from South Arabia first appeared on the East African coast. Long before the early caliphate Mocha city was a station of merchant navy and a shipyard. It was called Al-Mocha.

In 1512 the Portuguese squadron under the command of Afonso de Albuquerque occupied Mocha. Two years later the city was in Egyptian hands. In 1532 Yemenite was conquered by Turks. The State, which was integrated into the Ottoman Empire, during the century had been experiencing the pressure of Turkey.

The legends, which were written in 1763, connect the prosperity of Moch with the name of one sheikh called Shaddi. They told that he has arrived at an idea to extend planting of coffee-trees. Soon people successfully sold here a new product. A small settlement has grown to prosperous market town. In Europe its name has turned into the Mocha coffee and became the name of the sort. Even mountains around Mocha, which were covered with coffee plantations, were called «coffee mountains».

Mountains around Mocha

When sheikh Shaddi died, people have raised a mosque above his grave. His name was remembered in morning prayers like a name of city’s patron, the protector of Arabian coffee houses and a person who convinced humanity to drink coffee and buy coffee beans.

The Yemenite independent state (Imamat) was founded in 1633, after the antiottoman uprising. It was a time of comparative peace and more active economic advancement. Yemen has established communication with some European countries and supplied there his Mocha coffee. Just that period was a time of port’s prosperity like one of the main coffee trade centre. This prosperity coincided with a general economical upturn in the country, which already had a name «The happiest».

It is essential to stress following moments.

• It does not give rise to doubts, that to the end of XVII century the whole world got coffee only from Yemen. It was real and famous Mocha coffee (or Mokka). To the middle of XVII century Turkish and Egyptian merchants came to Yemen and got the best coffee beans. They bought a crop just from the tree, provided its harvest and seed treatment. Coffee was prepared with a help of dry method, i.e. it was dried out on the sun.
• The prosperity of Yemenite coffee trade was in many respects determined with monopolistic goods production, which popularity in Europe has become a rapid growth. Coffee has repeated the fate of many tropical spices, which are first of all famous for gustatory qualities.

The Arabs were very proud of new beverage and kept a lid on its preparation. They have forbidden to export coffee beans, if they are not dried. These measures were taken in order that no one grain, which may be sprout, doesn’t come to foreigners` hands, who were forbidden to visit coffee plantations.

About 1650 one Moslem pilgrim called Baba Budan could get seven green coffee beans and brought them secretly to south India. Some beautiful coffee trees have been grown from these grains and they laid the foundation of coffee growing in this country.

Beit el Fakih. The Caravan Way

By 1690 the Dutch got seeds in India and to the end of the century they founded coffee plantations on the Java and Sumatra islands. In some years they became the main coffee supplier to Europe, first of all owing to the Dutch East Indies company. The Amsterdam port was one of the most important centers in the world coffee trade.

From this moment begins the fast decline in Yemenite coffee trade, which supplies has always been carried in two ways – the first one was north caravan-sea and the second was south sea. In first case coffee was delivered from the market to the coast of Red Sea on camels and then to Suez, and then again on camels to Egypt. The sea route passed south direction to the Mocha port and from here – around Africa to Europe.

How to make Ethiopian coffee at home.

Coffee ceremony in Lalibela, Ethiopia

Sowed by the angel, made by the herder

Coffee is one of the best beverages which are known for our civilization. Perhaps, the flourishing civilization itself is in many respects owed to coffee. This beverage arises one’s thoughts, helps paint pictures and write novels, solves problems at the bargaining table and recovers state of health after last night’s party.

Over the last years the history of the coffee has become surrounded by a lot of legends…

At first the Arabs and Ethiopian made coffee from the whole grains. But just ground coffee has conquered the Arabian Peninsula. Later the flavor of coffee’s fame has reached Cairo. And in 1554 the beverage has appeared in Istanbul, where the Syrian merchants opened the coffee house. To the freshly ground coffee they added ground cloves, anisetree, cardamom seeds. Coffee got Europe about three centuries ago and became an integral part of our life.

Two sisters

There are more then seventy kinds of family coffee plants. But the main are just two – Arabica and Robusta.

Almost 80% of today’s ground coffee is just Arabica. There are a lot of quite different kinds of them. La Minita Tarrazu is grown in Costa Rica, it is strong and sourish. The Central America can boast of chocolate sort and elegant Puerto-Rican Yauco Selecto. There is Blue Mountain in Jamaica, which all harvest is sent to Japan. The African continent is proud of “Kenyan pea berries” which are grown on the Kilimanjaro mountainside.

The expert can distinguish them even with closed eyes. This process closely resembles wine-testing. Arabica has delicate and rich flavor, but its beans contain half caffeine than Robusta.

Wild Robusta – a sibling of Arabica, is less tame sort. The real Robusta – it is strongest coffee, with astringent flavor. It can’t compare with elegant aroma of Arabica. On the whole, Arabica was a beverage of Balzac’s characters, and Robusta was right for Marx’s heroes.

It was a great moment in the coffee history, when people started to mix two sorts of coffee. As a result, it was born a coffee mixture which combined advantages from both sorts. Usually each ground coffee represents the mixture received from grain milling of different sorts. The variations – are thousands upon thousands. The real gourmets ask a seller to grind various grains composing mixture for their money. There is nothing to find in this variety your own coffee. Bitterish Aroma Club, made from real Arabica, or strongest abundant foamy Aroma Point from the mixture of Brazilian coffee with Indonesian Robusta. Perhaps your choice is mild and tender Cream Aroma from African Robusta and Latin-American Arabica?

The Geography of Taste.

In the world people drink to 1,5 milliards cups of coffee every day. The target consumer is Europe. It is surprising, but main European coffee-achievers are not the Italian, but Finns and Norwegians – 10kg of ground coffee per man in a year. The Italians and the French drink coffee twice as little.

As for the sort, its roasting, grinding and making, each country has its own tastes and traditions. French coffee for example is not as strong as famous Italian espresso. The beans are slightly roasted and grade is larger than Italian. In general the Americans are unpretentious, if only the cup would be larger, however and plastic cup will do. As for Japanese, the main thing is a quality. There are special bars in Tokyo, where for 30 Euros you can enjoy a cup of Blue Mountain with unique flavor of Jamaica rum. This sort is very valued for its pronounced aroma and harmonious taste.

Africa has its own traditions of coffee ceremonies. For example, in Ethiopia, the café’s host washes out coffee beans in visitor’s presence. He makes it in special treated water. Then he roasts beans, grins them (manually of course) and boils in «Djeben» – special black clay coffee-pot. As thousand years ago…

By the way
Open vacuum packaging, it is desirable to use it for a week – abroach coffee loses its aroma and taste quite quickly. That is why it is usually packed up into the small, 100-250gr packages.

Irrespective of coffee sort, it is better to keep it in dark and cool place (but not in the fridge), as well as in closed ceramic or glass container. The air is an enemy of this product. That is why it is advisable to leave as few space as possible between coffee surface and vessel head. If you keep coffee in the soft package, try squeeze out air and paste closely with a sticky tape.

Never make coffee repeatedly. However one grandee remembered in his memoirs about Catherine II. In the morning she drank so strong coffee, that valets could make it repeatedly from remaining grind. After them chefs in the kitchen and then parlormaids. And finally lackeys used this grind with a great pleasure.

A cup of coffee from under the press.

Ground coffee is usually sold in vacuum packaging or in the pods (it is a portion of press powder 7g weight, in special filter paper). It is known that roasted beans excrete carbonic acid, that is why vacuum packaging for coffee beans is made with filter – otherwise the package will burst. Ground coffee contacts with air, so it «breathe out» its reserve of carbonic acid for the day, whereupon it is packed into the vacuum.

In order to have really excellent beverage, it should be properly prepared. Each grade has its own way. For example gross coffee, with grains sizes up to 0,5ml. intended for French-press. The powder is poured with boiling water in the special coffee pot. Then it is stirred up and covered with a lid. It should be brew for 3-4 minutes. Then depressing the plunger and trap the coffee grinds at the bottom of the jug. This method is worthy of real experts and tasters – it helps to catch the slightest nuances of the flavour.

The middle grinding is good for coffee-machines. Put ground coffee and pour with cold water. While heating it gathers into the funnel and leaks slowly through the paper filter into the coffee-pot – little by little. Such method of coffee-making allows you to squeeze out of coffee a maximum of caffeine. The middle grinding coffee is also used in espresso machines. By the way, this name doesn’t mean the speed of preparation, but only the fact that coffee is “from under the press.”

Some manufacturers of ground coffee recommend don’t boil it, but brew with a boiling water just in the cup – like instant. As a rule, it refers to fine-ground coffee. However, true connoisseurs still prefer to prepare coffee in the Turkish coffee pot – cezve, preferably – on the hot sand. By heating the coffee foam is raising to the narrow neck – at this moment the Turkish coffee pot is removed from fire in order to give the foam to settle. Then heat again – for three times. It cannot be allowed to boil coffee – the foam will be burst, and taste will be spoiled. If you succeed to avoid it, then you get a real Turkish coffee – “black as the devil, hot as hell, pure as an angel, sweet as love.“

Coffee and creation

With admiration wrote about coffee Balzac in «Treatise about modern analeptics»:
«As soon as coffee gets stomach, at once appears excitement. Thoughts start moving like Great Army’s battalions on the battlefield. Instantly in a memory arise events quasi adapt with a wind.»

Coffee like a medicine

In Europe at first coffee beans were considered like a remedy, and they rapidly have been moved from botanist’s study to drugstores. In XVII century in medicaments` assortment of doctors, homoeopathists, chemists and even obstetricians, they took honorary place.

Coffee was considered like a medicine not only because of its high cost, but rather of its pronounced specific taste. Sometimes it was even called as bitter black liqueur. (Samuel Hahnemann homoeopathy’s founder, stuck to hard and fast rule: «Coffee – is definitely medical substance. However no one remedy has more healthy taste than strong coffee without sugar. Even from the first time it seems everyone very pleasant»).

The doctrine of vital juices, which was developed by Galen (131—200), adherent of herbage therapy, has dominated in medieval Europe and also in Moslem countries. According to his theory, the physical state of any person is determined by means of four liquids: yellow and black bile, phlegm and blood. By disturbance of their correlation in organism appears disease. In its turn, each of vital juices is connected with two physical properties: warm (cold) and moisture (dryness). It was considered that these qualities have food, drink and medicines; just they were used for restorer of equilibrium of vitally important liquids.

Concerning medicinal properties doctors did not have consensus of opinion. Some of them were sure that it is dry and cold, other believed – dry but hot. It was such opinion that qualities of husk are different. The disunity in the ranks of physicians becomes obvious, if examine the list of diseases where coffee was prescribed.

In one of the brochures, written in 1663 and ridiculed doctors at the time, were some examples of people (and their places of residence), who recovered from the ailments (using coffee), when they were refused by doctors. Among them, Benjamin Bedkock who drank coffee in Leiden, and his wife, who was barren for four years. A nine months later after she denied from coffee, she bore excellent baby. «Anna Marina Rotterdam … was suffered from the tumor on her upper lip … and the deeper it was cut out, the longer it grew. As soon as she started to drink coffee, tumor turned back and began to grow inside the mouth».

One of the French doctor in collaboration with his colleagues, have determined that coffee together with others therapeutic effects can counteract drunkenness and subdue sickness, as well as relieve urination and treat dropsy, pox and gout. According to French encyclopaedia «Larousse», coffee is especially useful for writers, soldiers, sailors and workers, who are working in hot shops. For a wonder it is also useful for countries where cretinism is widespread.

Coffee like stimulator

Some consequences of caffeine’s effect cannot fail to be seen. One of the recognized medicine authorities gives following description: “Waking up, I feel languor and absence of some thoughts, like an oyster. However after drinking coffee, my memory becomes more sensitive, and I feel talkativeness, quickness and thirst for activity. We should drink coffee observing moderation and caution”.

A favourable report about coffee drink gave doctor Tornton: «A cup of strong coffee strengthens our mental and physical faculties. There aren’t any efficient remedies both for scientists and for workers».

As a result, useful substances from coffee beans are received human skin.

The record of coffee wholesome influence on mental and creative work can be found in proceedings of great writers. Honoré de Balzac, Émile Zola, Charles Pierre Baudelaire, Jean-Baptiste Moliere, François Voltaire were coffee admirers. In response to the fact that coffee isn’t a powerful but poison, Moliere and Voltaire, as one, answered that they have been drinking coffee during fifty years, and even if it had been quite weak, they would died long ago.

However doctors mentioned some negative consequences of coffee passion. (Hahnemann described so-called «coffee disease», which becomes apparent in the form of indisposition, collapse and special paralysis. Among others undesirable symptom were melancholy, haemorrhoids, headaches and diminished sexual libido (hypoactive desire).

It was an opinion that coffee had a bad influence on little children. Nursing mothers also should not drink it. It was considered that it ruins teeth and develops rickets.

The author of many medical treatises, a famous Italian doctor Sinibaldi, was a coffee opponent. He confirmed: „The commerce, which is developed between Asia and the New World, lead to smallpox development. What is more important, it introduced us a new beverage, which has destructive effect… It leads to intellectual defect, change of digestive juices, indigestion, convulsions, toe paralysis and giddiness. “

The disputes about the pros and cons of coffee have been continued for many years. With varying degrees doctors considered it sometimes a medicine, sometime a poison for the mind and body. They do not reach a consensus at present time.

Coffee and healthy skin.

In Japan, where during a thousand years traditional drink was green tea, coffee was spread very slowly. It was imported there not earlier then XIX century, and even nowadays its popularity is not wide.

However just in this country coffee has found unusual use. Japanese believe that coffee contains substances which are useful for skin recovery.

Health Benefits From Coffee

The goatherd shared this story with monks. Through trial and error they made a decoction of leaves, which miraculous power returned liveliness, dispelled spleen and helped do not fall asleep during long prayers. Much later people have learned that not leaves but just fruits have more energy power. People levigated barriers, mixed them with animal fat and got invigorative chewing balls.

From Ethiopia coffee’s way went through the Red Sea to Arabia, where he became popular very quickly. Especially in Yemen, in Mocha city, where merchants for the first time started to cultivate coffee plantations. For two long centuries Yemen supplied the whole East with a perfect coffee, which bore the old name of a city – mocha coffee.

Year 1425 – the year of making coffee in the beverage that we know.

Since the opening of the coffee’s power with a help of goats and to the XIV century the method of coffee making has undergone a lot of changes. At first, as we already knew, monks prepared decoction of leaves. Then Ethiopian tribes started to make wine from fermented coffee barriers. That drink was referred to qahwah (literally – tincture, which prevents sleeping). The Turks called the same like qahve. In 200 years it became its European name – caffe, cafe, coffee.

All this time coffee barriers were drawn and boiled, then they added sugar and drank it in order to get power and amuse spirit. And only to XIV century, the monks extracted from berries the beans and fry them on a slow fire, as well as brewed received powder.

Ubiquitous Venetian merchants brought coffee to Europe. Flavored drink attracted nobility’s attention. In new passion statesmen have felt unclear threat. They advised Pope Clement VIII to declare favourite drink of The Ottoman Empire as evil. However, one gulp of perfect strong coffee was enough – the Pope considered it God’s Bounty and blessed Christian for its using. So in 1645 in Italy was opened the first coffee-house.

In such a way coffee has become to Europe, so as to reign over the European hearts. Soon it had been drunk in public coffee houses which were opened in London.

Now it is not already important because of whom coffee has become popular – thanks to Ethiopian goatherd or to the Monks. Nowadays coffee is integral part of our lives.

Coffee Legends: Kaldi

London coffee-houses of XVII century have become famous as «Penny Universities», because with a cup of coffee it was possible to speak to painters, poets and merchants, who were haunters of these places. Just because of this fact in 1676 Charles II tried to close coffee houses considered them hotbed of political intrigue.

In honor of this drink Jóhann Sebástian Bach has written his «The Coffee Cantata».

At the beginning of XVIII century the naval officer Gabriel Mathieu De Clie has stolen the royal coffee tree in Jardin de Plans in Paris, and brought it to Martinique island in Caribbean Sea. Only in 5 years there were 18 million of coffee trees.

The representative of French realism Honoré de Balzac (1799-1850), has drunk up to 60 cups of coffee per day, promoting writing inspiration.

The coffee beans are actually coffee’s fruit pins. In 1696 the Dutch started to grow coffee in Java, an island of Indonesia.

By 1800 Brazil has become a leader in the manufacture of coffee in the whole word.

The caffeine – is an alkaloid, which is contained in coffee tree’s grains, tea plant’s leaves, kola nuts and in some others plants. Colorless silky crystals with a little bitter taste were first evolved from coffee extract by French scientist Runge in 1819.

Beethoven was one more coffee-drinker, who preferred proportion of 60 beans for one cup of coffee.

Great Britain

The history of coffee prevalence in Great Britain is differ from countries of Europe and North America. First, here the epoch of coffee houses were quite brief. Second, the tradition drink coffee in private took its roots very fast. Based upon available data, the most Englishmen considered the process of browning and grinding too complex and involved. Much easier and pleasant was to wash down dry leaves of tea-plant with boiling water. Nevertheless Great Britain was one of the first countries, which started the import of coffee.

There is a note from 1637 year in John Evelyn’s diary, how Turkish refugee delivered coffee to Oxford. The drink, which was made from it, became very popular among students and lecturers, who soon found out that this drink stimulates mental faculties and allows continue studying at night. In Oxford was opened Coffee Club, which later transformed into the Royal Society. About in 1650 Jew named Jacob founded the first coffee house, named “Angel“. Another such institution was soon opened in London, in Cornhill; its owner was a Greek Pasqua Rose.

In Great Britain, like in other countries, new drink had its followers and opponents. One chronicler of XVII century wrote that it was made from fried old crusts and pieces of leather milled in powder. Another annalist considered coffee as «syrup from soot and extraction from old shoes». Famous politician, reformer and economist William Cobbett (1762—1835) was one of some representatives, who considered coffee as «slush».

English coffee house. Anonymous author. 1668.

Coffee houses won spurs.

Nevertheless by 1660 the Londoners with great pleasure visited coffee houses, which saved their popularity during following fifty years. Even such world catastrophes as plague epidemic (1665) or Great Fire (1666) could not prevent townsmen from visiting of coffee houses. These institutions were found as vitally important for business people – here met trading partners, committed transaction, were concluded bargains, signed contracts and took place the information interchange. Just here were born such establishments of world economy like trade house, insurance companies «Lloyd» and «Baltic». Here were gathered artists, poets, writers, lawyers, politicians, philosophers and sages, each of them had his favorite place. In the diary of Samuel Pepys (1633 – 1703) you can find numerous mentions about visiting of different coffee houses in London.

In some houses was entrance fee in one penny, however visitors could discuss everything what they wanted. This incident was known under the name of “penny’s University”, and such coffee houses were centers of political and literary influence. In coffee houses were occurred and spread rumors and gossip, which you can find ironic mention in “Nyosmanzhers Hall”. Here you can learn everything starting with political news around the world and finished with fashion news, modern diets and information about the life of famous people.

Yobbish manners in English coffee house.
The end of XVII century.

Prohibition on coffee using

In 1675 in order to avoided civil commotion, Charles II had issued an edict about closing of coffee houses. He had a support of Londoner’s women – they submitted an application, where stated their view about over-use of withering and remissive «liqueur». Women confirmed that this drink make men sexual incapable. Women, who had no right to visit public institutions, complained to king, that their husbands spend fast all the time in these coffee houses and waste family budget. They confirmed, that «the whole nation is on the verge of dying out». Gentlemen replied immediately, that they did not spend less time on the nuptial bed because of coffee, but of women evil tongues.

In spite of support from the women part of population, the prohibition on coffee lasted not very long. After numerous active mass protests and petitions from the direction of merchants and retailers, coffee houses were newly opened. But «on conditions that owners would not allow readings of any scandalous articles, books or slanderous statements against government».

As such injunctions were obviously absurd, they were soon abolished. Since then coffee houses have never experienced persecutions. Simultaneously with a popularity of coffee as a drink, grew the movement of followers for abstemious life. Under its influence, working people, dockers and other representatives of hired labor stopped visiting pubs, showing preference for coffee houses. Here you could meet all sections of the population. In some cafes there was an anxiety about if they could get along together. In order to prevent mass riots, they put up rules of conduct (see boxed text).

The large hall for haunters in Brooks’s club in St. James Street.
Picture of Rowlands and Pugin. 1809

Fall of coffee’s popularity

By XVIII century, in spite of various rules of conduct in coffee houses, their atmosphere has undergone important changes. In order to attract more visitors, many houses served strong drinks. In response, intellectuals began to visit only specially educated clubs, and prosperous and influential men, for safety’s sake, visited closed clubs for elite in Pall Mall and Saint James. Commercial interests and financiers have come to conclusion, that it is more convenient to work in special offices or in others quarters, which are belong to professional associations and societies. It was one more reason of fall in popularity of coffee houses – wide spread occurrence in the second half of XVIII century of bookshops and libraries. If earlier newspapers and publications could be found only in coffee houses, then now libraries gave an opportunity read not only native literature of all varieties, but also foreign periodicals. Visitors, who earlier read newspapers in coffee houses, now preferred do it anywhere.

In spite of the fact that representatives of high society and middle class got accustomed to drink coffee, tea became more and more popular. There were arisen quite new institutions, where were served other soft drinks and food. By the end of XVIII century people in Britain almost did not drink coffee. It was against drawn attention only in the second half of XX century.

English coffee seller in 1860. K. Hunt’s picture. 1881

The rules of conduct in coffee houses

«Any member of society can visits coffee house irrespective of profession; all visitors should be in one hall, taking places in turn; nobody has any advantage in order to take the best place; it is allowed to argue and hold different discussions, keeping quiet, because not everyone likes loud conversations; do not touch private questions of your interlocutor…»

North America

As likely as not, that Dutch colonists have delivered coffee to New Amsterdam, renamed New York, long ago. However first established facts, which confirm penetration of this product to North America, are dated in 1668. Two years later in Boston was issued license of trading right in Dorothy Jones name. Shortly thereafter in all colonies on the east coast of the Atlantic were appeared coffee houses.

At that time the service of coffee house was considered as women’s work, though great ladies had never been owners of such institutions. In contrast to Europe, in America, spending time in cafes was considered as aimless. These places had not European club atmosphere, they were more reminded of taverns and eating-houses, where soldiers and travelers could rent a room. There were not a lot of visitors, who usually behaved like a hooligans. One the most famous coffee house was «Green Dragon» in Boston. Here gathered revolutionary minded colonists.

The colonists greet Indians, who throw away English tea in Boston Harbor.
This lithograph has announced the growth in popularity of coffee. 1846

In reply to increase of tea sales duty, in 1773 colonists organized the Boston Tea Party. It proclaimed coffee American national drink. As a result of this policy, coffee houses were opened in many towns. Some of them went to history of USA, because here were decided politically important questions. Merchants’ coffee house in New York was a scene of endless political debates and strategic projects. It was competed with famous «Tontin», which owned 150 New York businessmen on an equal footing. It was like raw exchange market and commodity market, banquet hall, as well as an office where were registered arriving and sailing ships.

Finally, American coffee houses have turned into business enterprises and associations, men’s clubs, banks and commodity markets. Some of them were transformed into taverns, hotels and restaurants.

In spite of the fact that coffee houses could not exist for a long time, coffee as a drink got general popularity. It was promoted by means of influx of European resettles. The expansion of coffee market was also a result of joining such big territories like Florida and French speaking provinces, which were placed in Mississippi valley.

Coffee helped to maintain competitive spirit by colonists, who went to conquer west parts of America. Even natives of the continent have drunk coffee. There are legends, in accordance with, resettles have exchanged part of ground by Indians instead of instruments, weapons and sacks of Javanese coffee.

In soldier’s ration coffee has played a large part. They liked this «hot black strong drink, which helped them walk tirelessly». It was highly rated, and soldiers always tried to make sure that it was equally divided. For that, equal parts of coffee were poured on the rug, and sergeant, turned back to soldiers, called out their names in no particular order.

By the middle of XIX century coffee has firmly entered the lives of Americans. Then they used 3.5 kilograms of grain per head, while the Europeans – only 600 g. Different sections of the population drunk coffee, both in towns and in countryside. It really became the national drink of Americans.

• The middle of XV century, Mecca.
• The middle of XVI century, Constantinople.
• 1650 Oxford. The first English coffee-house was opened by Turkish emigrant Jacob.
• 1651 Livorno. The beginning of Italian coffee-houses.
• 1672 Paris. Later, in 1689 in French capital was opened legendary Café Le Procope – one of the oldest nowadays working cafes in the world.
• 1683 Vienna. It was opened legendary cafe «Zur Blauen Flasche», which started famous Viennese coffee-houses.
• 1690 Hamburg.
• 1720 Saint Petersburg. The first data about coffee-houses in Russia.

Typical national cafes

Arabian countries. Coffee houses – like gentlemen club – place for meetings, playing backgammon and lively talks.

Italy. Espresso-bars – small institutions, often without tables, where it is possible to take a sip of espresso just by counter.

Austria. Viennese coffee-houses – the resemblance of societarian hotel: the place for small talks with luxurious society interiors, variety of coffee drinks and confectionery.

USA. Coffee networks: standardized service and interiors, functionality, considerable profit share – take-out coffee, absence of alcohol and hot food.

All these stories are very different but at the same time have one common idea: an energetic army captain Francisco de Mallo Palheta was chosen as an independent arbitrator, who was well known like lady-killer. Arrived into place, he found favor both in the eyes of Guiana’s ruler, and his wife, who he had a short love affair with. When vexed question was solved, governor’s wife presented a bouquet to the captain in acknowledgement of his political and amorous services. Among the flowers were carefully hidden coffee shoot cuttings. However, some chroniclers insist that he was given thousands of coffee beans and five large saplings. In any case, Palheta came back to Brazil with the planting stock. Historically, it is not important, whether it were cuttings, seeds or saplings.

At first, in Brazil were grown not many quantity of coffee and it was used only for home consumption. However, the local geographical, climatic and soil conditions were so liked for plants that they were perfectly growing up and propagating, and country produced a number of coffee. By 1765, to Lisbon went first ships, laden with coffee beans, which were grown in Brazil.

The first plantators

“Coffee picking” Francisco de Miranda (1750-1816)

The brave, who first decided to grow coffee, had to win plentiful lands from virgin jungle. They had to get rid of natural growth not only with the purpose of coffee planting stock, but also of growing food for themselves. It was necessary to erect homes for their families and slaves, as well as buildings for keeping equipments, machineries and harvest. The most part of the country was covered with forests, so planters were often in complete isolation from all mankind. Thus, early fazenda – so called local estates – became centers of civilization in rainforests of Brazil. As in Europe coffee was gaining popularity and in South America grew the urban population, wealth of planters was increasing, fazenda was growth in size, and life became more comfortable. It was a time of prosperity and welfare.

Stanley Stein said in “Vassuras, Brazilian coffee county” in 1850 – 1900’s, that coffee growing had a beneficial effect on economic and social life of Brazil. From the economic point of view, the country’s prosperity was found in dependence on demand fluctuations of coffee in the world market. Cropping capacity is subjected to the whims of nature: cold mountain winds could bring hard frosts, and tropical plantations can die during short period of time.

The social consequences of coffee cultivation reflected in the formation of a new level of aristocracy – coffee barons, owning vast estates. Inevitable consequences caused mass afflux of slaves from Africa. It led not only to unprecedented stratification of society but also to changes in ethnic composition of Brazil, particularly its central part. Considering the reasons of such changes we can come to a conclusion that they were caused not by means of increase in plantations, but of huge coffee requirements by Europeans.

Coffee and slavery

Hacienda and fazenda – huge estates of Spanish and Portuguese colonists – were growing because of slaves` labor. There were more than 370 thousands of Africans legally transported to Brazil since 1840 till 1850. In Spanish possessions slavery was abolished in 1850, while in Brazil it lasted until 1888.

Coffee and slave-trade

Portuguese and Dutch removed slaves from Africa to Brazil and Java. Thanks to their work the level of production was increased to double, although everywhere was observed recession.

Harvesting and drying of coffee in Brazil

brazil coffee cupping